Imagine this: standing with one foot in each hemisphere, exploring an island paradise where iguanas roam and giant turtle’s swim. This is just a taste of the adventure that awaits in Ecuador, a land of staggering biodiversity and captivating contrasts.
MoJo discovered the wonderous Galapagos Islands that inspired Charles Darwin, in the compact and wonderful Ecuador. Named for the equator, it boasts postcard-pretty town centers, pristine white-sand beaches, Kichwa villages, Amazonian rainforest and the breathtaking Andean highlands.
The country has the most biodiversity, per square kilometer, of any country in the world. The equator runs right through the country, which means the night sky brings out the stars in both hemispheres, and we would highly recommend visiting for at least 2.5 weeks.
Travel Tips
Best Time To Go
The country really only has two seasons, a wet season and a dry season.January through May is the coolest and wettest part of the year. You can expect bigger crowds in the Galapagos in January as it coincides with school break and the ocean conditions are ideal. June through September are the driest and warmest months of the year. A wet suit (you can rent one in town) may be required while snorkeling during these months.
Water temperatures vary throughout the year because of the powerful ocean currents in the archipelago. Between June and December, the Humboldt Current, a cold water ocean current flows north from Antarctica along the west coast of South America, bringing nutrient rich water to the Galapagos Islands and helping to sustain the islands rich biodiversity. The most visible effect of the Humboldt Current in Galapagos is the abundant life, both marine and terrestrial. The huge quantities of plankton attracts hungry marine life.
Pro-Tip:
As the Galapagos seasons shift, two transitional times emerge – November through January and May through July. These periods are the best time of year to visit Galapagos, particularly the latter, which sees a transition from the hot season to the dry.
Getting to the Galapagos Islands:
The trip by speedboat to and from Isabela Island is approximately 3 hours long and cruises through open sea. The ride can be very rough and passengers prone to motion sickness should be wary.
May 28 through August 26 (approx.) departures use light aircraft flights (a 5 or 8 person small plane) to travel to and from Baltra/Isabela Island. We took a small plane and I got to ride in the cockpit, and it was thrilling!
Language: The official language of Ecuador is Spanish, with 93% of its population speaking it.
Currency: The currency of Ecuador is the United States dollar (USD).
Credit Cards & ATMs: Credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, and American Express) are widely accepted in Ecuador. You can use them in hotels, shops, and restaurants. ATMs are located throughout the country. Best to take small US dollar bills with you.
Voltage: Ecuador’s power sockets and standard voltage match those in the United States. The power sockets in Ecuador are types A and B, and the voltage and frequency are 120V and 60Hz, the same as in the United States.
Visa: Not required for US citizens for up to 90 days in any 12-month period from the date of first entry into Ecuador.
Getting Around: Uber and Taxis are freely available in the big cities. You can get around the islands without a guide, but I would highly recommend hiring naturalist guides born in the Galapagos. In the Amazon, you do need a guided visit. My recommendations are below.
Where we stayed:
Guayaquil: Hilton Colon Guayaquil (good to stay in a safe location, not all areas are safe and armed guards are ubiquitous)
Galapagos: Scalesia Lodge in the highlands of Isabela Island on the slopes of a volcano. Accommodation is in luxury safari camp style tents with decks and panoramic forest views. The main lodge is a modern and minimalistic social area with a restaurant. (Alejandro is the manager and he is excellent)
Quito: (when we went on Day 8): Near airport and closer to Middle of Earth and the cocao farm we visited. EB Hotel by Eurobuilding Quito
Papallacta: Termas de Papallacta Excellent. You will have to have meals here, nothing else nearby. Attached spa that we highly recommend you make appointments for treatments.
Amazon: Sacha Lodge all inclusive. We took their 4 days 3 nights package includes all meals and naturalist guide for the duration of your stay.
Quito: (last 2 days, perfect New Town location) Dann Carlton Hotel
ITINERARY:
Day 1
We landed in Guayaquil (pronounced why-i-kill), the region’s main port and the largest city in Ecuador, a vibrant and bustling city. Took in the sights and sounds of this hot and humid city.
Day 2
Today we drove through the lush natural scenery of the lowlands of Ecuador, past banana plantations to a working Cocoa (Cacao) Plantation called Unocace They are a union of peasant cocoa orgs and make the best fair trade, premium organic chocolates.
We learnt about the history of cocoa beans and saw the modern processes that begin after the beans are picked from the cocoa trees. We had lunch with them or local delicacies like potato soup ("sopa de papa"), mashed plantations among other things.
Afternoon saw us back in Guayaquil and to the Seminario Park, home to arboreal Iguanas. Walked around the city viewing the contrasting architecture of the city's Neo-Gothic Cathedral, Moorish clock tower, and the impressive La Rotonda Monument that depicts the historic meeting in 1822 of Simón Bolívar and José de San Martín, which is considered a turning point in the South American independence process. In the evening we saw stunning panoramas of the city from Santa Ana Hill, where the city was founded in the 16th century.
Pro tip: In Guayaquil the can’t-miss attractions are the coastal Malecón 2000, the Palacio Municipal, Las Peñas, the Mercado Artesanal and Parque Centenario.
Day 3
Off early this morning on a journey to the beginning of time with a flight to the Galapagos Archipelago of volcanic islands, five million years in the making. The Galápagos Islands, located roughly 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador, remained a closely guarded natural secret for millions of years. Over that time, the archipelago evolved into a home for an all-star cast of plants and animals. It consists of 127 islands only four of which are inhabited. The shells of the giant tortoises reminded the Spanish visitors of horse saddles, and Galapagos comes from the spanish word for saddle. In 1859, Darwin published On the Origin of Species, which introduced his theory of evolution — and the Galápagos Islands — to the world. In 1959, the Galápagos became Ecuador's first national park, and in 1978, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site (the first such classification).
Biodiversity brings over 100,000 visitors each year to these remote islands that were totally unknown to the world until 1535. Without the influence of a human presence, the island's flora and fauna, and the surrounding marine life, thrived for thousands of years by evolving into unique species you won't find anywhere else in the world, such as the charismatic giant tortoises and blue-footed boobies (my fav!).
Our flight was from Guayaquil to Baltra (1hr 45mins) followed by a small plane ride (28 mins) to the small village of Puerto Villamil on Isabela, the largest island in the Galapagos considered the 'gem' of the archipelago. Named after Queen Isabella of Spain, this enchanting island offers an expansive beach, beautiful natural surroundings and striking pink flamingos which gracefully traverse the lagoons and marshes at dusk.
Day 4 and 5
These two days were spent exploring the island. In Puerto Villamil aboard a panga (dingy) we cruised to the Tintoreras Islet, where a lot of the locals go to swim and snorkel. In this small bay with its calm turquoise waters and white sand beach, you can see sea lions, sea turtles, penguins and marine iguanas. When the tide is low, in the shallow crevice you can see the island's famous whitetip reef sharks, who we swam with!! There's also a lava trail which leads to two beaches, an important nesting site for marine iguanas.
After lunch at our lodge, we embarked on an afternoon hike to the historic “Wall of Tears” that stands as a monument to prisoners brought to the island who perished while forced to construct the 'pointless' barrier - a sad reminder of the history of Isabela. Our guide Emma was fantastic, her grandfather was one of the founding pioneers of the island. They have one of the best empanada shacks on the beach (“Yum Yum” is the name of this place).
Day 6 and 7
We hiked to Sierra Negra, one of the most active volcanoes on the archipelago; its caldera is the second largest in the world with a diameter of six miles. Our lodge provided us rubber boots as it is a muddy and at times steep hike, as we traverse across an alien landscape of fascinating geological features.
We took a cooking class at our lodge and made ceviche and ceviche de chochos (vegetarian ceviche made with lupini beans and hearts of palm). It was so yum that everyone wanted some of the vegetarian one. After lunch we went to Los Humedales, a complex of trails where you can see all four species of mangroves found in the Galapagos. Following the path, we discovered secluded beaches, lava tunnels, and natural pools. In this mating area for pink flamingos, you also can observe many different species of migratory birds. Not to miss is a visit to the fascinating Turtle Breeding Center where you learn more about the National Park's conservation programs to save the iconic Galapagos Tortoises on the brink of extinction.
Day 8
On the way out, we reversed the same journey by car, boat, small plane and then bigger plane. This time we went from Baltra to Quito. It does take half the day to make this journey, so it’s best to check in and relax for the rest of the day. Ecuador’s capital city is the heart of Ecuadorian culture and history, and it’s all set against a beautiful volcano backdrop. Visit places like the Historic Center (a UNESCO World Heritage site), the Cathedral of Quito, the Basilica del Voto Nacional, the Convent of La Merced, Church of the Society of Jesus or any of the exquisite parks strewn throughout the city.
Pro tip: In Quito, Mercado Iñaquito, Mercado Central, Mercado Santa Clara, and the small restaurants in the historical center and plazas are mandatory stops for dishes such as locro de papa (potato stew), hornado and fritada (baked and fried pork).
Day 9
This morning, we went to visit the “Middle of the World” Monument, located at a latitude of 0 degrees. It was an epic experience to stand with one foot in the Northern and one in the Southern Hemisphere. I’d suggest you walk around all four sides and walk up to the top of the monument. They have the history of the country explained on every landing. (BTW: they tell you the elevator doesn’t work, but if you really need it, just tell them you can’t walk up and they let you use it.)
Pro tip: If you are brave enough to eat guinea pig, they do have some of the best served in restaurants around here. You also need to taste the Café Bom-Bon, an expresso shot layered over condensed milk at the only coffee café right near the East side of the monument.
Day 10
We drove to Papallacta (hot springs, Termas de Papallacta) located in the Andes Mountains, about 1.5 hours from Quito. The therapeutic properties of the Papallacta Hot Springs are rooted in their origin deep within the earth. The thermal waters are rich in minerals and nutrients, believed to boost the immune system, improve skin conditions, and alleviate stress and anxiety. These hot springs were held in high regard by the ancient Incas for their healing powers, a sentiment that continues to resonate with locals. “Papallacta” means “Potato Earth” and locals go here for a romantic weekend away. We did see a lot of families too!
Great place for hiking too, the trails at the Papallacta hot springs are at a high elevation, which means you’re closer to the sun and, ironically, probably a bit colder. In fact, Antisana Volcano (which is the mountain you’ll see on the hike if it’s not foggy) and Cotopaxi, which are both fairly close to Papallacta have year-round glaciers at the top.
You have two hiking options:
A small boarded path next to the hotel that curves around the river (it takes about 30 minutes to complete)
The Virgen de Papallacta trail, which is about 10.5 miles (17 km) and will take you 5-6 hours.
Pro tip: The Spa is one of the best and though you can access the hot springs for free if you are a hotel guest, I would highly recommend booking a massage, which gives you access to larger and better pools. A 30 minute back and neck massage is about $40.
Day 11 and 12
A short flight over the Andes Mountains takes you to the town of Coca, the jumping off point to the Ecuadorian Amazon, home to more varieties of plants and animals than any other place on earth. We stayed at the amazing and luxurious Sacha Lodge. They are all-inclusive, 5,000-acre (2,000-hectare) ecological reserve in the Ecuadorian Amazon.
Imagine walking across a bridge suspended over the rainforest canopy, paddling through creeks in search of monkeys and river otters, climbing to the very top of a giant kapok tree or swimming in a black-water lake, threading your way through trees in search of the world’s tiniest monkey. You’ll find these exclusive experiences, plus many more, only at Sacha Lodge, within this pristine ecological reserve in the Ecuadorian Amazon. (Ecuador hosts 2% of the Amazon rain forest. Brazil at 65%, has the largest share.)
Each group is assigned a private guide and naturalist for the duration of your stay (recommended 4 days). Ours was an indigenous guide, Sanshu; his father the most respected Shaman in their village, and his family held in high regard in the Kichwa community. He was a skilled spotter and had ninja night vision. The food: oh, the food here was amazing. Michelin level plating for dinner, and the attention to detail by the staff is on another level. Lot of special meals with barbecue, local Kichwa cuisine and a cooking class with local wine pairing.
Once we landed in Coca (the colloquial name for Puerto Francisco de Orellana) we were whisked to Casa Sacha for a box lunch and refreshments before boarding a motorized canoe (2.5 hrs) for a long but scenic journey down the river to the lodge. Upon entering the lodge's private reserve, we walked (30 mins) along a raised boardwalk that stretches through a dense flooded palm forest in which several species of monkeys are often sighted. Then we boarded dugout canoes to transport us across Pilchicocha Lake to our accommodations at the lodge.
Total journey to get to the Amazon lodge: 4 hours.
We settled in, enjoyed a bit of birdwatching from the mini-tower. Joe went for a cool swim in an area protected by cage wire (there are piranhas in the lake!). After dinner, we walked through the rainforest with our naturalist guide, and then a canoe ride on the lake to view the spectacled and black caimans as we silently paddled us across the lake.
Day 13
Every day is an early wake up day in the Amazon. Breakfast for everyone is 5 am and we are out doing different activities by 5:45 am.
Today we went on a Canopy Walk, one of only a few self-standing suspension canopy walkways in the world. With extraordinary panoramas from the observation platforms of this 900 foot long walkway, suspended at a height of 120 feet above the forest floor. Exclusively owned and managed by Sacha Lodge, Sanshu showed us so many birds, toucans, sloths, monkeys and parrots. Afterward, we did a night walk in the pristine forest where Sanshu explained the many different species of medicinal plants used in their culture for hundreds of years. Later, he paddled the dugout canoe along the nearby blackwater creeks where luxuriant lianas, bromeliads, and palm trees thrive.
Day 14
This morning, we visited the Nueva Providencia Interpretation Center located across the Napo River, home of the Kichwa’s to learn from the women about their foods and lifestyle. They showed us different fibers used for weaving their homes and make their roofs waterproof. They even cooked us some delicious traditional foods. We also practiced shooting an Ecuadorean “huaroni” blow pipe.
In the evening we went on a silent canoe ride through the flooded Amazonian forest, surrounded by friendly squirrel, capuchin, and howler monkeys. This evening the ride on down the “Anaconda channel” and we spotted a “baby” anaconda. Later we arrived at a 135-foot metal tower from where you can get fabulous views of vibrantly colored birds through powerful scopes. Upon our return to the lodge, the guide taught us how to fish for the infamous razor-toothed Piranha.
Day 15
Time to bid farewell to the amazing Amazon Basin this morning, and settle in for a long ride by canoe to Coca. (4 hrs). Transfer to the airport for the flight to Quito.
In Quito we explored its treasures of art and architecture, starting in the historic colonial quarter, one of the best preserved in South America. Our walking tour of the city started at Independence Plaza, flanked by the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Presidential Palace, the Municipal Building and the Archbishop's Palace. Onto the Metropolitan Cultural Center with its exhibits highlighting Ecuadorian culture and rich history. Visited the Compania of Jesus Church with its beautiful gilded interior.
Pro tip: República del Cacao has the best coffee and the BEST ice-cream in all of Ecuador.
Due to the high elevation, travel in the Ecuadorian Andes may cause temporary effects of altitude sickness.
Day 16
A drive to visit to the market in Otavalo, one of the largest in South America run by the local Otavaleños. If you can go on Saturday, it doubles in size, with some of the best shopping in town. A very lively atmosphere as you browse the various stalls for traditional goods such as handwoven cloth and rugs, jewelry, belts, scarfs and more. The town itself is very charming an and you can stay overnight and visit its many bakeries.
On the drive back, we visited a rose plantation and hear about Ecuador's major rose cultivation industry. Although roses are not native to Ecuador, the country has a perfect environment for rose cultivation and is presently one of the world's major producers. We learnt so much about the export of roses, the environment they are grown in and much, much more. A must visit. Insight: Ecuador is the largest producer and exporter of roses worldwide followed by Colombia.
Day 17
Depart for home. We stayed in New town Quito, so a great place to walk around with lots of parks, cafes, shopping and restaurants. The local supermarket was a great place to buy the famous Aji (hot sauce served with every meal), coffee and chocolates for gifts. República del Cacao has the best, they have a store in new town and also at the airport.
That’s a wrap of our trip. Ecuador beckons with its kaleidoscope of landscapes and unforgettable experiences. Are you ready to answer the call?
Recommended Guides:
For Unique Ecuador Experiences and Trip Planning: Antonio Reascos +593997804540
Galapagos: Emma Tejada +593985196687
Amazon: Sanshu (provided by Sacha Lodge)
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